a girl in the world

finding beauty, pleasure and grace on the road less traveled

Never did we make friendships

This is the welcome banner that would greet you as the opposing team when you enter La Bombonera (Boca Junior’s home stadium). Charming, arrogant, shameless. So sweetly Argentinian.

Last night we attended the last Boca Juniors home game until August. We didn’t stay in the sheltered tourist area, nor did we get numbered seats.  We came in through the piss dripping back stairwells of the standing-only section to sing and dance with a mass of people so passionate about their football, I couldn’t help but feel jealous.

 

 

We sat in these stands just a few feet up from where this video was taken. Total chaos.
Where does all of this feeling come from? How can grown men shout so hard, sing so beautifully, dance and jump and scream like I’ve never seen in North America or Europe?

 

Football is a mysterious thing.  Its lure and grandeur escaped us in Canada where all matter of sport and debauchery is centered around hockey.  I’d always wanted to attend a football match in South America but had heard how difficult it is to find good, local tickets.  We don’t do clean, tourist packages where you sit in a protected little box to watch the match as if it were on TV.  We wanted to be thick in the chaos, in the noise, with the musk of emotion around us.  So, when a friend mentioned a cheap, dodgy hostel offering available, we jumped on it.  It’s the kind of package probably monitored by la doce but organized by local folk (It’s a known fact that all ‘foreigner’ tickets are handled and sold by the Boca hooligans, referred to as la doce).  The ‘company’ who organized everything for us doesn’t have a website for ‘safety reasons’.  Ha.

We gathered at a pick-up point until a rickety old school bus blasting reggaeton music came barreling around the corner to take us to a parilla and beer jaunt in a conventillo near La Bombonera.  It’s like tailgating, Argentinian style.  Then we were walked into the stadium in large groups, were searched more thoroughly than at an airport security line and passed through side streets and back allies that looked like war zones.   Smoke, barricades and black-helmeted riot policemen at every corner.  Fun!

As game time approached, the beat of drums echoed in the nearby streets.  They have a band?!  I asked.  Yes, a marching band!, he answered sarcastically.

It was a band. Sort of. Actually, it was more like a mob 30,000 strong, jumping, chanting and screaming in tandem.  It was the most musically talented mob I’d ever seen and for a few short minutes at a time, when I could copy the words, I jumped, chanted and screamed with them.  I was a gringo local.  A gringo, but still local for a short time.

To feel the heartbeat of a rabid stadium, to hear it, to smell it – there is nothing more powerful.  Looking across the field at the ant-like figures of colour and sound, I felt moved.  It was no longer about the players down on that grass.  It was about the people.  A show for the people, by the people.  Families in their best blues and yellows gathering on a warm Sunday evening to cheer on a losing team.  Babies on their daddy’s shoulders.  Grandchildren, dads and granddads, three generations of men chanting, swearing and jumping all around us.  It was madness and beauty.

I wish I understood more what it all meant.  I was there, a part of the action, but still an outsider.  Football as foreign as the language. Somehow I understood early on that it isn’t just about scoring goals.  Even as we lost, the chanting and drums continued.  60,000 fans chanted and stood for 90 minutes. NINTEY MINUTES (I was completely knackered by half time)!  If that’s not loyalty, I don’t know what is.

And wow, I learned a whole slew of new Castellano!

Hijo de puta! Hijo de puta!

Dale, gordo! Puta! Puta madre!

and a little more sweetly, translated …

Boca my best friend
this tournament we are going to be with you
we support you with our heart
This tournament we are going to be champions
I don’t care that they say
what the others say
I follow you everywhere
I love you more and more

The women in my family… are very good at swallowing disappointment and moving on. They have, it has always seemed to me, a sort of talent for changing form, enabling them to dissolve and then flow around the needs of their partners, or the needs of their children, or the needs of mere quotidian reality.  They adjust, adapt, glide, accept. They are mighty in their malleability, almost to the point of superhuman power.  I grew up watching a mother who became with every new day whatever that day required of her.  She produced gills when she needed gills, grew wings when the gills became obsolete, manifested ferocious speed when speed was required, and demonstrated epic patience in other more subtle circumstances.

– Elizabeth Gilbert, Committed

062009MomVisit022

A daughter’s life, by womb and blood and love, is bound inevitably to that of her mother’s.  The loftiest dreams and the deepest pains cross the thresholds of generation to ebb and flow between mother and daughter in a sea of endless tides.

The rock of mom’s love has been my anchor in the storms of my life.  How then, on this Mother’s day weekend, do I give her thanks for all things immeasurable …

… for crying with me in my deepest pains of heartbreak; for hot teas at 2 AM, for answered phone calls during important work meetings, for instilling braveness as we packed boxes, emptied shelves, dusted away memories and started anew

… for sending me off with a smile and a tear, a pain in her heart for the distance between us, but with hope and excitement for the adventures ahead; adventures lived vicariously through daughter because mother didn’t have the chance

… for beautiful random cards in the mail, for hand written notes, for surprise pairs of shoes, for make-up, scarves and exercise balls, trinkets of love and thought

… for laughter that turned to tears; at sunset in Italy as we shared dreams and fears and heartbreak; in a bus careening down the coast, while the driver looked on distracted; at Starbucks next door, tears and coffee and tea

… for “hello” IMs from 6500 miles away, a “hello” that lifts the weight of the world, brings lightness, joy and goodness in an instant

… for dreaming bigger than me, for dreaming bigger things for me, for dreaming that all things good and desired are possible

… for her smile, the smile I’ve thankfully inherited

… for the joyful, patient, beautiful way that she has loved my dad; children learn what they live – we lived in a home full of love, faith and laughter

… for sharing with me the joys of sisterhood – the amazing beautiful love between women; her sisters have become my second mothers; their pains have become my pains, and my pains, theirs

… for teaching graciousness as guest, as host, as friend; a thank you note, a token gift, a bundle of flowers

… for time; always, there was time;  evening walks on the streets of northwest Calgary, during the sunsets of my youth;  conference calls at lunch breaks, London to San Francisco; homework and brainteasers, zoo field trips and candy stores, elementary through junior high

… for teaching strength, wisdom and courage so i can stand up for myself when needed, but always with a reminder to be soft, to forgive, to choose love

… for being a true superwoman: mother, friend, daughter, wife, career woman, kid (at heart) and glamma (to the Bear)

And yet, it’s not enough.  No note of love and thanks will ever be enough to measure the gratitude that I feel for the blessing of Mom’s role in my life.  But I’ve learned that love and gratitude are infinite, meant to be given away.  So on this weekend, in addition to giving thanks to mom, I’m going to give thanks to all the wonderful, amazing, beautiful women in my life, those who’ve been here as mother, friend and confidante.

Thank you Ma Beng, Ma Pei, Ma Beth for the Castelvi in you.  You are the strongest, most generous, most faithful, loving, forgiving women that I know.  I am blessed to share your name.

Thank you Grandma for the early and the late years, for all the moments I can’t remember and for all the moments that I do: home-cooked meals, lunches, love and support; thank you for being the true embodiment of generosity.

Thank you Tita Merle, Tita Norma, Tita Julie, Tita Susan for all things you did that turned my dad into the man he is today, for the unending support, even in the distance.

Thank you Auntie Grace for being my mom away from home during university; for the support, for listening, for always being there.

Thank you Auntie Josie for all that we shared in London and after; for bringing your simple, humble love to one of the harshest cities in the world and reminding me just how beautiful the presence of family can be.

Thank you to all the Tita’s and Mama’s that I didn’t mention, from Calgary, the PI and Vancouver.  For everything that you are as women that has made my time with you that much more special.

Happy Mother’s Day.

Gawd I love Latin America.  They just know how to prioritize all the important things in life.  Forget efficient governments, reliable laws and customer service.  There is passion, great food, tango, gratuitous shows of affection in public, and hoochierobics.

Hoochierobics!

After last night’s not-so-great Reggaeton classes, I figured Areo Interval would be more, you know, technical.  I’d imagined step aerobics with weights and tae-bo and whatever else areo intervals are all about.  Thankfully, I was wrong.

It’s like aerobics but sluttier.  You mambo, you salsa, you grind your ass right down to the floor.  Imagine this and this and this blasting so loud you can’t hear yourself think.  There are mirrors and hips and jiggling and sweat.  It’s aerobics on crack.

What a great way to spend an hour on a random Tuesday night.  Inappropriate dancing, taught by an instructor who inappropriately flirts with the all-female attendees, grinding, sweating, singing and cha-cha-cha-ing all in the name of good health.  Amen to Argentinian aerobics classes.

Hi, I'm Denise. I'm a writer, artist and photographer. This is where I share what I'm seeing, learning and making.


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