a girl in the world

finding beauty, pleasure and grace on the road less traveled

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A few days before leaving Ubud, a friend and I took one last tour to see Tirta Empul, the Holy Spring Temple and Pura Besakih, the Mother Temple. And my were we lucky! This past weekend marked temple celebrations across the island and we were fortunate enough to witness ceremonies and offerings everywhere we went. It was stunning to see whole villages of people, dressed in their finest silks and jewels, walking miles across town with baskets of fruits and flowers to offer thanks to the gods. The smell of incense permeated the afternoons, gongs rang and drums echoed down the streets, and colours, so many colours spilled over everywhere! Though I can’t possibly begin to understand the complexity and history behind Hinduism, it was a blessing to be witness to the beautiful traditional dances, gong ensembles, processions, prayer ceremonies and cleansing rituals that we saw this weekend.

At Tirta Empul, it was youth day. Hundreds of young adults came to wash away their impurities, ward against black magic and bathe anew in the natural spring waters. It was touching to see so many young people rooted in their faith and traditions. They laughed and giggled while in line, but when it came time to pray at the fountain mouths, there was a solemness that came over each and every one of them.

Dan Beuttner did a TED talk on living happier and longer and one of the major conclusions that he came up with after studying centennials from all over the world is that belonging to the right tribe and being a part of a faith based community can add years to your life. I couldn’t help but remember this as I humbly watched the elaborate celebrations happening this past weekend. Even for just a few days, people forgot that they were poor and hungry and came together to give thanks. There is a simple abundance in the acts of faith and gratitude, and both bring true richness to this place.

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What a day!  One of the best days ever.  God has a funny way of doing things.  Just when I am about to leave this place, he shows me the best time ever.  =)  Maybe it means I am meant to come back again!

I was going to write all about this ridiculously amazing massage that I had today – so incredibly sensual and beautiful and mind-blowingly good.  The draft post read something like this:

I found the most wonderful spa today.  An hour and a half massage costs 15 USD.  My masseuse sent shivers up and down my body the entire time.  A sensual massage is a rare thing to find and what a blessing it was. The entire time on that table, I felt delicate, precious, human.  And I’d like to add that sensual is not the same thing as sexual.  Sensuality is about the senses: the touch, smell, temperature of things.  It is of the body, it is tactile, it is raw.  Lying on the table I thought to myself, “Human beings are meant to touch each other this way.  This is an act of giving, an act of pure pleasure for the other person.”  To be touched so delicately but with the firmness and control of experienced hands was incredibly intoxicating.   I became aware of my body – shapes and contours, hardness and softness, and all the places where tension has collected.  The heat of the afternoon, the spirituality of the place, the music and the touch – all of it left me feeling lightheaded, jubilant and thankful.

And I ranted on and about about the sensuality of things.  Well, I went back for a second massage tonight (because yes it was just that good) and at the end of it, the guy asked me out.  Flattering?  A bit, but it basically nixes the whole ‘sensual not being sexual’ thing, nulls the validity of my original post and once again highlights my naivety.  I laughed the whole walk to dinner about how clueless I can be sometimes.  And instead of being deep and meaningful, the post just ended up sounding funny to me!  In hindsight, I could feel weirded out about the whole thing, but honestly, it was just so good that I don’t even care.  I don’t care, I don’t care, I don’t care.  I am so full of endorphins that it doesn’t even matter.

Anyway, so the rest of the day continued to be just as great.  I decided that instead of bargaining at the market for cheap souvenirs and stressing myself out in the process (sometimes, I am just not in the mood to haggle and would really rather just give someone my credit card), I went and purchased high-quality locally made products instead.  I shopped for great silks and beautiful jewelry in pretty stores with fantastic service.  Sometimes the experience counts for a lot.  I felt good about spending the money on good craftsmanship and handmade products instead of supporting the big factory that is mass-producing cheap pashminas from China.

And then I met a fellow Canadian just walking down the road, a guy from Victoria who is traveling through Indonesia until the Vancouver Olympics begin, at which point he will go back to work in Whistler for BC Transport.  So nice to meet another Canadian!  We talked about Nepal and India and Thailand and Everest Base Camp and diving and manta rays coming up from the great big deep.

And then I went to this bar where a live reggae band was playing.  A guy from the audience played his harmonica and then another guy rapped in what should have been English but I’m not really sure and all the while, a bunch of 80+ year old women were dancing on stage.  They managed to get the whole restaurant up and dancing on this random Sunday night in warm beautiful Bali.  Cheap drinks, a sticky humid evening and cheesy rainbow lights reflecting off the restaurant disco ball.  So wonderful.

It hasn’t rained in three days, I went for a dip in the pool (it is gorgeous, in the middle of rice paddies), I walked for about 6 hours all around town and now I’m sweaty and happy and tired and getting ready to head to the airport at 3 AM for my flight to Kuala Lumpur.

I keep remembering what my Mom said to me months and months ago:  It is best to leave a place loving it.  Leave on a high.

Well Mama, you’re so right!  I am leaving Ubud on a really great high and can’t wait to come back!

This place has been so good for my body and my soul.  Such gorgeous humbling beauty.  Such sensual humid heat.   Such a great place to heal, to love, to become new.  It is still wild and authentic and unspoiled and I’m blessed to have had the chance to see it this way.  I hope it never changes because I will definitely be back.

  • On underwear.  Remember the packing advice post that I wrote from a while back, when I suggested bringing only two pairs of travel undies made with quick-dry breathable material?  Well, honestly, every night I thank myself for having gotten these undies at REI before leaving California.  They’re not cheap – I think 18$ USD per pair but they are worth every single penny!  They are super comfy, do not give you undie lines and really are quick dry (I wash a pair in the shower every night). I am actually going to buy more when I get home for normal use!
  • On Moleskins. These are my favourite notebooks of all time.  They are leather bound compact journals that are great for jotting down notes and travel information and sketching and friends’ email addresses and addresses and everything!  Mine has been my true companion during my travels.
  • I packed too much. And really, I hardly packed anything at all.  All I really wear these days:  a sarong, a tank top, sports bra, flip flops and hat.  Sometimes I will use my travel cargo pants and trainers.  What I did fail to bring is a long sleeved linen shirt for when I visit Muslim countries (i.e. Malaysia) and need to cover up.  I wonder how much it would cost to mail my extra clothes home?
  • Tripadvisor. Use it, for everything!  I look at reviews on Tripadvisor before I book a tour or a hotel.  And then I compare Expedia’s rates with hotel website rates.  This way, I am getting the cheapest possible deal!  More saved dollars = more massages!
  • Makeup. Haven’t used any since I started traveling.  I am sure my face is thanking me for it, but my back is not.  The makeup bag should have stayed at home.
  • Other things I brought and don’t need: a pair of jeans, 500 tank tops, Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia on a shoestring (it is crap, go use The Rough Guide instead!), an extra camera lens, contacts and contact solution (I’ve been using glasses when I need them), two reading books (should have just brought one!), painted nails (they look terrible now that they are chipping away and I don’t have nail polish remover to clean them up!)
  • Things I brought that have been life savers: a fleece, convertible cargo pants, sarong, my computer (lets me write, helps me make skype calls, enables me to edit pictures and pretty much keeps me sane!), flip flops, sun screen, mosquito repellant, a hat, silk pajama bottoms (they are breezy but still makes you feel protected if you’re picky with hotel sheets), a universal adaptor

So, thus far, it has been going well.  I still would have packed half of what I brought!  =)

Hi, I'm Denise. I'm a writer, artist and photographer. This is where I share what I'm seeing, learning and making.


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