The Seven Martyrs Church on the headlands of Kastro Sifnos is an eerie site at sunset. The Cyclades islands are rough and dry, their coastlines plunging into the black Aegean. At dusk, the sky glows like there’s a blazing fire nearby. On this warm August eve, goosebumps came over me as the warm pink glow of nightfall enveloped us on the cobblestone path up the hill into town.
