Here, I’m always thought of as a local. Actually, I think that judging by the way people look at me, they are guessing I’m local, but aren’t really sure. They look at me like I’m an alien that could be human but just in case, let’s be a little cautious. It is a fascinating way to travel. Not only do I learn about the place but I do get a very unique insider’s view of the social culture not accessible to other western tourists. I blend in Thailand, in Indonesia and I would guess in most other parts of this region just fine and I’ve found that different countries treat me in different ways when they think I’m one of them – sometimes for the better, but other times for the worst.
In Thailand, for example, when I was walking around with the boy in Koh Samui, I couldn’t help but feel assumed as a working lady. The area with all the clubs and restaurants was teeming with he-she’s and she-he’s and she’s – all dressed in provocative clothing and high heels. And though I made it a point to dress in long linen trousers and loose blouses, I still saw eyes on me – both from the western men and Thai he-she-she-he’s. Add to that my tall white boyfriend and I could see why these women were all looking at me like I was their competition! HA! Though I didn’t take it too personally, I really did get a first-hand account of what prejudice feels like. People assumed something about me without knowing me at all! And then, even while we were going through the cities and sites, cab drivers and gate keepers would speak to me in Thai and when I didn’t respond, would sound angry or offended. I wasn’t purposely ignoring them! I simply had no idea what they were saying to me! For the whole week I often wished I had a tattoo on my forehead reading “I AM NOT THAI!”.
In Indonesia, it has been a bit different. I purposely avoided the binge drinking beaches of the Southern coast (like Kuta) and so haven’t been exposed to the working-girl environment there. But, I was sitting in a nice restaurant one night having my dinner and I overheard the owner of the restaurant graciously greeting and serving the Australian couple behind me. “How are you enjoying your food? Where are you from? Do you like Bali? Oh, can we get you anything else?”, he crooned. When he was done, he walked right past me. And I didn’t think anything of it until he heard me speak English to the waiter and the man nearly fell over himself trying to get back to my table. Suddenly he was at my side asking the same questions. Then he added, “I’m sorry, I thought you were Indonesian!”. Though I didn’t take it personally, it did feel a bit sad that he would be so overly courteous with foreign visitors to his restaurant and not domestic ones. Why wouldn’t an Indonesian guest get the same service as a westerner? Everyone is paying just the same and should be seen as important, regardless of race or colour.
The ‘blending in’ has served me well here though. Likely because I look less apt to accepting bullshit, everyone offers me such low prices for everything: tours, sarongs, hotels, tickets etc! When I compare notes with fellow travelers, they choke when I tell them how much I paid for the tour we’re on. It must be because they’re giving me local prices? Either that or I’m quite good at bargaining (my tip: bargain really hard but with a huge smile!).
Sometimes I feel like I’m one big walking mirror here in Asia, bringing out the true colours and reflections of those with whom I interact with. Just like a place can bring out aspects of the traveler that he or she may not necessarily know about his/her self, perhaps a fellow Asian-look-a-like can bring out the same angels and demons in the local people.
